Searching for Pakistan's Jewish heritage: Karachi's Jewish Cemetery

At Pakistan's Independence in 1947, the country's Jewish community numbered between 1,000 – 2,500, with most residing in the port city of Karachi. Based on official data, by 2019 the number had reduced to 809. Some observers suggest the actual number of Jews in Pakistan may be closer to 200 – 300 persons.

A Jewish wedding Mehndi ceremony in Karachi, 1959.
(Wikipedia: public domain)

The reduction in Pakistan's Jewish community is attributable to two main factors.

Firstly, the creation of Israel in 1948 resulted in the first wave of migration out of the country. Secondly, as a Muslim majority state, Pakistan was not immune to increasing anti-Israeli sentiment, especially witin the Islamic world, as a result of the intensification of the Palestine - Israeli conflict. This resulted in a second wave of overseas migration by Pakistani Jews after the 1967 Arab - Israeli war.

Nonetheless, until the 1970s, Jews were a small but visible community in Karachi. It is not unusual to come across older Karachites who had Jewish school friends or classmates in those days. Indeed, Karachi's Jewish Synagogue or Yehudi Masjid (Jewish Mosque) survived until the late 1980s. In 1988, the valuable piece of land was finally expropriated for commercial uses. (Apparently, a synagogue - albeit abandoned - still stands in Rawalpindi though I have not seen it personally.)

Among the most visible vestiges of Karachi's Jewish community is the Bani Israel Jewish Cemetery. The Jewish cemetery is part of the larger Mewa Shah Qabaristan (cemetery), an interfaith cemetery which also contains a Christian burial ground. The Mewa Shah Cemetery remains in regular use, though the Jewish Cemetery seems to get few visitors.

Photo by author (© All rights reserved)

I visited the Jewish Cemetery during my recent travels to Pakistan. Tombs and headstones of many members of Karachi's Jewish community still stand proud, even if decayed. To be sure, the graveyard has seen better days as it appears there has not been any maintenance for several decades.

In the media, one reads reports about efforts by Pakistani Jewish activist Fishel BenKhald to restore the Bani Israel Cemetery. Indeed, families living within the cemetery compound (descendants of the original caretakers of the cemetery presumably) speak of an individual (BenKhald?) who has visited several times and spoken of rehabilitating the cemetery.

Photo by author (© All rights reserved)

Notwithstanding BenKhald's endeavors, Pakistanis in general and Karachites in particular, have an obligation to preserve the city's multireligious heritage. Karachi's development has seen many prominent citizens of varying religious backgrounds, e.g. Nadir Edulji Dinshaw the renowned Parsi philanthropist, make sigifnicant contributions. Karachi must honor its diverse historic legacy. Hopefully, the Bani Israel Jewish Cemetery will be restored – with or without the government's assistance - to its former glory and members of Pakistan's Jewish diaspora will be able to freely visit the graves of their ancestors.

I am a Singapore based Tour Guide with a special interest in arts and history. I have lived and worked in several countries during my career as an international banker. I enjoy traveling, especially by train, as a way to feed y curiosity about the world and nurture my interest in photography. I am available on twitter (@grandmoofti); Instagram(@imranahmedsg) and can be contacted at imran.ahmed.sg@gmail.com.

Of Mardin's monasteries, wine and stone houses

From Gaziantep it was onwards to Mardin. Mardin was high on my visit list as it is at the confluence of several religious and cultural inflection points. Among others, Mardin is a cocktail of Arab, Armenian, Syrian Orthodox Christian and Turkish influences.

The narrow stone streets and houses
of Mardin's old city (Photo: Imran Ahmed)

Mardin is so close to the Iraqi and Syrian borders that kite flying may easily turn into a crossborder activity if one is not careful! Arabic is widely spoken in the city. Historic Armenian, Greek and Syrian Orthodox monasteries and churches dot the region.

Inside one of the many historic
churches found across Mardin (Photo: Imran Ahmed)

Like many cities in Turkey, Mardin has an old and a new section. 

For travelers the stone houses and narrow lanes of the old city hold more charm than the new, high rise buildings and supermarkets of Yenisehir or New City. Walking around the old city there is always a chance of running into an ancient place of worship or monument, e.g. Mor Behnam Kırklar Kilisesi, Zinciriye Medresesi or the Mardin Museum. Not to mention the Protestant Church, Ulu Cami (Grand Mosque) or the Mardin Evleri.

The courtyard of the historic
Syrian Orthodox Church in Mardin (Photo: Imran Ahmed)

While in Mardin, there are some worthwhile day trips to consider, e.g. to nearby monasteries – functioning monasteries with entrance fees and guided tours! 

There is also the historic town of Hassankeyf - which may be underwater by the time you read this post. Hassankeyf is expected to be submerged by June 2019 as a large dam has been built close by. Once the dam's reservoir is filled then the existing town will be underwater. It's worth noting some historic monuments and the town's entire population have been moved to the 'New' Hassankeyf located not far from the 'original' town.

The 'new' Hassankeyf town on the
Tigris River in the Batman province near Mardin (Photo: Imran Ahmed)

Wine is another attraction in Mardin. Remember the monasteries mentioned above? Well, these monks and their friends ferment wine from local grapes in large quantities. It's reasonably priced (or cheap if you're buying wine in a highly taxed environment like Singapore) and easy drinking. The wine is readily available in shops dotted on the main street of the old city.

Grapes from the Midyat valley produces decent
wine which is easily available across Mardin city (Photo: Imran Ahmed)

Mardin is about architecture and history. It's about soap (yes, there's a lot of good locally produced soap around) and wine. It's about narrow lanes and stone houses. It's about keeping alive Christian monuments and practices in a country which is 99.8% Muslim (according to Turkish government sources). For travelers heading to Turkey's east, Mardin is a necessary stop.

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Imran is a Singapore based Tour Guide with a special interest in arts and history. Imran has lived and worked in several countries during his career as an international banker. He enjoys traveling, especially by train, as a way to feed his curiosity about the world and nurture his interest in photography. Presently, Imran is spending ten weeks (March – May 2019) in Turkey exploring the country. He is available on twitter (@grandmoofti); Instagram(@imranahmedsg) and can be contacted at imran.ahmed.sg@gmail.com.

PTI’s Khan panders to Islamists and Mr Chief Justice I can’t hear you now?

Imran Khan's Pakistan Tehrik-Insaf (PTI) government's recent collapse in facing down Islamist radicals over the appointment of Pakistani Princeton University economist - who happens to be Qadiani - to a government advisory panel, is shameful.

Even more shameful is that Imran Khan did not use even one iota of his considerable political capital to support Atif Mian. There was no public statement from King Khan himself, only official comments by his minions.

Source: Wikipedia

Is this the Naya Pakistan for which Pakistanis voted?

Apart from the fact that the government's behavior is illegal - Pakistan's Constitution is unambiguous on the subject – it sets a dangerous precedent for the State's future. 

PTI's surrender places in doubt Khan's ability to follow through with his ambitious reform program in the face of protest. Economic reform requires tough decisions and if the government is only capable or willing to implement populist policies then whence the reform?

The incident underscores  the recent disintegration of Imran Khan's principles at the altar of political expediency – following on from his decision to appoint 'lotas' (aka electables) in a hitherto principled political party.

Undoubtedly, we cannot bury the notion of Naya Pakistan until the PTI's five year term is complete. However, the PTI has not had an auspicious start and the omens don't look good, especially for women and non-Muslim minorities.

Before one gives up all hope, perhaps one can give a shout out to the otherwise activist 'Suo Moto' Chief Justice? Yes, we appreciate your efforts in building dams Mr Chief Justice but can we request you also focus on your day job and dutifully enforce Pakistan's Constitution in Atif Mian's case?

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[i] No citizen otherwise qualified for appointment in the service of Pakistan shall be discriminated against in respect of any such appointment on the ground only of race, religion, caste, sex, residence or place of birth. Pakistan Constitution, Article 27 (1)

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Imran is a former banker and  has lived and worked in several countries during his international banking career. He enjoys traveling, especially by train, as a way to feed his curiosity about the world and nurture his interest in photography. He is available on twitter (@grandmoofti); Instagram (@imranahmedsg) and can be contacted at imran.ahmed.sg@gmail.com

Singapore’s Muslim Saint: Habib Noh and the Haji Salleh Mosque

Singapore's religious traditions are varied. This does not mean simply a cohabitation of various major faiths such as Buddhism, Christianity, Hinduism, Islam and Taoism. The diversity extends to include many strands within each religion.

So it is with Islam and Habib Noh, a Singaporean Muslim saint.

A view of Habib Noh's shrine which sits atop Mount Palmer, Singapore

Noh (1788-1866) came to Singapore around 1819 as a young man. The exact year is unknown. Noh's family, originally from Yemen, claimed descent from Islam's Prophet Mohammad. Moreover, Noh's father worked for the welfare of homeless people in Penang, Malaysia and remains a revered figure there.

In Singapore, Noh frequently sat for long hours in prayer and meditation atop Mount Palmer. Mount Palmer is located on the edges of modern Singapore's business district. Nonetheless, it was Noh's acts of kindness which captured the affections of his contemporaries. Noh was particularly recognized for his compassion towards children, particularly orphans.

Throw in 'miracles' and the Habib Noh tale is complete. Stories abound of Noh's miraculous spiritual abilities, such as curing sick babies and children. Additionally, he is believed to have 'pre-empted' adversities for many people through his ability to foretell dire events.  

Following Noh's death in July 1866, he was buried atop Mount Palmer. Noh's grave sits in a shrine atop a flight of 49 steps. In 1890, Noh's shrine was renovated by a descendant of the prominent Singaporean Muslim family, the Alsagoff's. In 1987, the shrine was refurbished and found its present structure.

A report on Habib Noh's death from the Singapore Free Press dated August 2, 1866

Next to Noh's keramat (shrine) stands the Haji Muhammad Salleh Mosque. The Salleh mosque is named after the Batavian (present day Jakarta, Indonesia) merchant and close friend who established the original prayer area where the mosque is now located. The prayer area was converted into a mosque in 1903. 

Noh embodies the purity of religious spirit. Thus, it is not surprising that almost 200 years after Noh arrived in Singapore, the holy man watches and protects Singapore and its residents from his shrine on Mount Palmer.

To learn more about Sufi Islam, please watch, 'Lifting the Veil: Sufi Mysticism Beyond Rumi' a presentation delivered by Imran Ahmed at the Esplanade, Singapore.

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Imran is a licensed Singapore Tour Guide. If you wish to arrange any personalized tours in Singapore, including of the Habib Noh shrine and / or other religious heritage sites, please contact Imran at imran@deodaradvisors.com.