Of Mardin's monasteries, wine and stone houses

From Gaziantep it was onwards to Mardin. Mardin was high on my visit list as it is at the confluence of several religious and cultural inflection points. Among others, Mardin is a cocktail of Arab, Armenian, Syrian Orthodox Christian and Turkish influences.

The narrow stone streets and houses
of Mardin's old city (Photo: Imran Ahmed)

Mardin is so close to the Iraqi and Syrian borders that kite flying may easily turn into a crossborder activity if one is not careful! Arabic is widely spoken in the city. Historic Armenian, Greek and Syrian Orthodox monasteries and churches dot the region.

Inside one of the many historic
churches found across Mardin (Photo: Imran Ahmed)

Like many cities in Turkey, Mardin has an old and a new section. 

For travelers the stone houses and narrow lanes of the old city hold more charm than the new, high rise buildings and supermarkets of Yenisehir or New City. Walking around the old city there is always a chance of running into an ancient place of worship or monument, e.g. Mor Behnam Kırklar Kilisesi, Zinciriye Medresesi or the Mardin Museum. Not to mention the Protestant Church, Ulu Cami (Grand Mosque) or the Mardin Evleri.

The courtyard of the historic
Syrian Orthodox Church in Mardin (Photo: Imran Ahmed)

While in Mardin, there are some worthwhile day trips to consider, e.g. to nearby monasteries – functioning monasteries with entrance fees and guided tours! 

There is also the historic town of Hassankeyf - which may be underwater by the time you read this post. Hassankeyf is expected to be submerged by June 2019 as a large dam has been built close by. Once the dam's reservoir is filled then the existing town will be underwater. It's worth noting some historic monuments and the town's entire population have been moved to the 'New' Hassankeyf located not far from the 'original' town.

The 'new' Hassankeyf town on the
Tigris River in the Batman province near Mardin (Photo: Imran Ahmed)

Wine is another attraction in Mardin. Remember the monasteries mentioned above? Well, these monks and their friends ferment wine from local grapes in large quantities. It's reasonably priced (or cheap if you're buying wine in a highly taxed environment like Singapore) and easy drinking. The wine is readily available in shops dotted on the main street of the old city.

Grapes from the Midyat valley produces decent
wine which is easily available across Mardin city (Photo: Imran Ahmed)

Mardin is about architecture and history. It's about soap (yes, there's a lot of good locally produced soap around) and wine. It's about narrow lanes and stone houses. It's about keeping alive Christian monuments and practices in a country which is 99.8% Muslim (according to Turkish government sources). For travelers heading to Turkey's east, Mardin is a necessary stop.

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Imran is a Singapore based Tour Guide with a special interest in arts and history. Imran has lived and worked in several countries during his career as an international banker. He enjoys traveling, especially by train, as a way to feed his curiosity about the world and nurture his interest in photography. Presently, Imran is spending ten weeks (March – May 2019) in Turkey exploring the country. He is available on twitter (@grandmoofti); Instagram(@imranahmedsg) and can be contacted at imran.ahmed.sg@gmail.com.

Adana: much more than a kebab

From Konya it was onward to Adana. Adana is a nice sized city of 1.75 million persons located 35 kilometers inland from the Mediterranean coast. The Seyhan River flows through the city.

It's not difficult to reach Adana. Intercity public buses ply regularly to Adana from Konya. There is also a Turkish Railways (TCDD) train – the Toros Express – which travels between the two cities daily in a six hour rail journey.

Photo: Imran Ahmed

As I always find train travel more comfortable than buses choosing the Toros Express was a no-brainer - despite knowing TCDD's old fashioned diesel electric locomotive trains are not fanous for their punctuality (arriving two hours late may be considered 'on time!').

A Turkish Railways diesel electric locomotive stands at the head
of the Toros Express train at Konya station (Photo: Imran Ahmed)

The Toros Express train reached Adana after dark and we took a taxi to the hotel. Sitting in the taxi observing the city on the drive to the hotel I felt a sense of panic and dread. The hotel seemed in the middle of nowhere surrounded only by commercial warehouses! After check-in all I could see from our hotel window were a few trees and total darkness!

Things are always clearer when the sun ishines, i.e. during daylight. So it was with Adana. It turned out the empty space across the hotel was a park and beyond the park flowed the Seyhan River. In other words, the hotel's location was perfect!

Adana was a great place to rest and destress. Sure, there are several sights worth exploring, such as the grand Sabanci Merkez Cami or Sabanci Central Mosque but at its heart, Adana is for rest and recreation not for visiting six different attractions daily over a weekend.

The Sabanci Merkezi Cami (Photo: Imran Ahmed)

Nonetheless, it's hard to miss the Sabanci Mosque – nor should one miss it. The mosque is built on the banks of the Seyhan River and it is huge! It can accommodate 28,500 faithful for prayers, has six minarets with the tallest being 99 meters. Those numbers may not mean much to many but trust me the mosque is large. In fact, at the time of writing it is the largest mosque in Turkey (though soon to be surpassed by the official opening of a new mosque in Istanbul).

The banks of the Seyhan River (Photo: Imran Ahmed)

Though there are sights other than the mosque, the recommended plan for Adana is walk around the bazaar, eat some Adana kebab and, most importantly, stroll along the promenade by the Seyhan River – past the Sabanci Merkez Mosque – stop for a Turkish cay (tea) and simply soak in the environment. In today's information filled, wired society the soothing sounds of Turkey's longest river flowing toward the Mediterranean Sea is enough to add Adana to any Turkey travel itinerary.

Imran is a Singapore based Tour Guide with a special interest in arts and history. Imran has lived and worked in several countries during his career as an international banker. He enjoys traveling, especially by train, as a way to feed his curiosity about the world and nurture his interest in photography. Presently, Imran is spending ten weeks (March – May 2019) in Turkey exploring the country. He is available on twitter (@grandmoofti); Instagram(@imranahmedsg) and can be contacted at imran.ahmed.sg@gmail.com.

Mosques more beautiful than Istanbul's Blue Mosque – maybe?

Istanbul's Ottoman Turkish monuments and architecture are well known. Istanbul buildings like the Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmet Mosque) and the Sulemaniye Mosque, Topkapi Palace, even the Hagia Sofia are visited by millions each year. Less well known are the Seljuk styled mosques dotted across the pre-Constantinople capital city of Bursa.

Bursa's gold bazaar is located in an old han or travelers hotel complex (photo: Imran Ahmed)

Bursa can be reached in approximately two hours by car from Istanbul or by a ferry to the nearby port of Mudanya in about the same time. A note of caution about the ferry services from Istanbul's Eminonu pier to Mudanya: they are subject to weather conditions.

The day of our departure all ferry services to Bursa were canceled due to rough seas. We ended up taking the bus from Istanbul's Harem bus terminal to Bursa's Otogari Terminal. Bursa's bus terminal is out of the historic city center so be prepared for another trip before reaching your hotel. Taxis and local Metro buses are easily available at the terminal.

Let's get back to Bursa. Like many places in Turkey, Bursa traces its history back to Greek and Roman times. There are even some Roman artefacts on display at the British Museum in London, Britain. (I wonder if these pieces were gifted or simply appropriated when the treasure was located in the early 20^th century?)

Bursa was captured by the Ottoman Turks in 1326. Subsequently, the city became the Ottoman capital. It was during the Ottoman period that Bursa gained its nickname of 'Green Bursa.' The city was lined with gardens and parks and its importance as a fruit growing region was enhanced. Architecturally, the Ottomans also left behind several mosques and monuments which are a must see.

While traces of Bursa's ancient history are found mostly in museums, the period from the fourteenth century onward is plainly visible for any traveler moving around the city, e.g. the Ulu Cami or Grand Mosque which dominates an entire section of Bursa.

Men pray inside the main prayer hall of the Ulu Cami or Grand Mosque (photo: Imran Ahmed)

The Grand Mosque was completed in 1399 with some unique features. Notably, it contains a fountain inside the mosque giving the mosque a beautiful tranquil feel. Moreover, the mosque has twenty domes. Apparently, Sultan Beyazit I (1389- 1402) pledged to build twenty mosques after winning the Battle of Nicopolis against a combined European Crusaders force. Ultimately, Sultan Beyazit I (aka the 'Thunderbolt') decided to fulfill his pledge by building one mosque with twenty domes!

Then there is the Yesil Cami or Green Mosque and its adjacent Yesil Turbe (Green Mausoleum). The Green Mosque was completed in 1422. It is named after the green-blue tiles which line its interior. The mosque has living quarters for the Sultan (and his harem) in case he decided to grace the area for an overnight stay.

A fountain in the courtyard of the Yesil Cami or Green Mosque (photo: Imran Ahmed)

Although Bursa's main sites can be seen on a day trip from Istanbul, there is much to be said for a longer stay in this city – especially if you wish to take in the nearby Mount Ulugdag, Turkey's premier ski resort. There's also the seaside town of Mudanya – 25 kilometers from Bursa and the landing point of the ferry from Istanbul – which is known for its fish restaurants and nightlife (disclosure: I have not visited Mudanya … yet). Travelers wishing to get beyond Istanbul and the Sutan Ahmet area will find Bursa worthwhile choice.

Imran is a Singapore based Tour Guide with a special interest in arts and history. Imran has lived and worked in several countries during his career as an international banker. He enjoys traveling, especially by train, as a way to feed his curiosity about the world and nurture his interest in photography. Presently, Imran is spending ten weeks (March – May 2019) in Turkey exploring the country. He is available on twitter (@grandmoofti); Instagram(@imranahmedsg) and can be contacted at imran.ahmed.sg@gmail.com.

Hat Yai: Southern Thailand's frontier market town

Hat Yai is the capital of Thailand's Songkhla province. The city is perhaps best known for being the last major Thai settlement on the route to Malaysia's Georgetown / Penang. However, Hat Yai deserves to be much more than just a dot on a map or a passing sign on an express train journey from Bangkok to Malaysia.

The Hat Yai train station which connects the city with other parts of Thailand, including Bangkok as well as the Malaysian city of Butterworth

Hat Yai is a travel destination in its own right. If the number of Malaysian voices one hears around Hat Yai is any indication, Malaysians seem to agree.

The city is a combination of street markets and many cultural attractions. The reclining Buddha, the Guan Im Temple and the Four Faced Buddha are just a few of the monuments sprinkled around the city.

A view of the 'small' reclining Buddha

The Reclining Buddha Temple, said to be the second largest in Thailand

A lazy visitor relaxes at the steps of the Guan Im Temple, dutifully guarded by a golden royal dragon

Note there are no mosques in the above list. Odd, given Hat Yai's population is approximately 40 percent Muslim (it's hard to find accurate statistics online). Nonetheless, for Pakistani (or Pakistani origin!) visitors, there is a particular place of worship in Hat Yai not to be missed: the aptly named Masjid Pakistan or Pakistani Mosque!

The notable Masjid Pakistan or Pakistani Mosque located near Hat Yai's main train station

According to a local inside the mosque, the Masjid Pakistan was originally constructed about 50 years ago by three wealthy Pakistani merchant residents of Hat Yai. The philanthropists bought the land and funded the mosque's construction. Subsequently, in the early 1990s, a major expansion of the mosque was carried out, also spearheaded by the descendants of the Pakistani families but with the larger community's involvement.

Perhaps the greatest part of Hat Yai's charm lies in its small town feel coupled with a unique demographic mix. The city's population is less than 200,000 and includes sizeable Chinese and Muslim populations. In fact, Hat Yai is unique among Thai cities in that the combined Muslim and Chinese populations outnumber the 'traditional' Thai population.

Colorful examples of Peranakan architecture on a Hat Yai street

The mixed population results in a unique cuisine blending Malay dishes with the Thai penchant for chilli. As with the rest of Thailand, the food alone is enough to entice a traveller into Hat Yai.

A wall mural of a dragon painted on the walls of a Chinese temple

Since the start of a low level Islamist insurgency in 2001, many travellers have stayed away from Thailand's southern provinces for security reasons. Certainly, there have been scattered incidents of violence in the past. But Hat Yai is much too enchanting to avoid simply because of the activities of a few misguided souls!

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Imran is a Singapore based Tour Guide with a special interest in arts and history. Imran has lived and worked in several countries in his career as an international banker. He enjoys traveling, especially by train, to feed his curiosity about the world and nurture his interest in photography. Imran can be contacted at imran.ahmed.sg@gmail.com.

Byzantine churches, Ottoman mosques and Constantinople's conversion to Istanbul

Many in predominantly Christian parts of Europe associate Turks and Turkey only with Islam. I have even heard some refer to a mosque as a 'Turkish temple!' Not surprising given Turkey's population is over 99 percent Muslim.

Nonetheless, some of the nicest attractions in Istanbul happen to be non-Muslim monuments. Relics from the glory days of the Byzantine Empire located in its erstwhile headquarters, the city of Constantinople. While the Hagia Sophia may be the best known church from the Byzantine days there are other churches worth a visit.

A fresco of the Virgin Mary and Child inside the Chora Church

One such Byzantine church is the Church of the Holy Saviour in Chora, now known as the Chora Museum. The first church on its present site was built in the fifth century. The church was located outside the walls of the main city. Hence the name which when translated means, 'The Church of the Holy Redeemer in the Fields.'

Much of the present structure dates from the eleventh century. The church saw many modifications until the early 1500s when it was converted into a mosque. In 1948 a project to restore the building's many frescoes began. By 1958 the building was reopened as a museum. Anyone with a few hours to spare in Istanbul will find the museum a pleasant surprise. Such old buildings along with its beautiful frescoes are rare.

As a bonus to any visitor, there are two additional sights to see within a few minutes walking distance from the Chora Museum, i.e. the Mihrimah Sultan Mosque and a section of Constantinople's defensive wall.

A view of Sinan's Mihrimah Sultan Mosque

The Mihrimah Mosque was built by Ottoman master architect Sinan between 1562-65. Dedicated and named after Emperor Sultan the Magnificent's favorite daughter, Mihrimar, the mosque is as good a specimen of Sinan's work as his more well known structures, e.g. Suleiman Mosque in Istanbul or the Selimiye Mosque in Edirne. Sinan's style is well reflected in Istanbul's iconic Blue Mosque, designed by one of his assistant's – Sedefkar Mehmed Agha.

Near the mosque is a section of Constantinople's historical defensive wall. Bravehearted travelers can climb a section of the wall to obtain a panoramic view of the city from a higher vantage point. The hill is near the highest vantage point in the city. The less daring may stroll through the wall's gate, the same gate which Ottoman Sultan Mehmed II used to ceremoniously entered the city after its fall.

A 1903 painting depicting Ottoman Sultan Mehmed II at the 1453 Siege of Constantinople

Istanbul oozes history. A decidedly European city with an Islamic flavor. Or, if you prefer, a decidedly Islamic city, with an European flavor. Seeing two beautiful places of worship, a mosque and church, alongside each provides a glimpse into the deep soul of this unique city. 

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Imran is a Singapore based Tour Guide with a special interest in arts and history. Imran has lived and worked in several countries during his past career as an international banker. He enjoys traveling, specially by train, as a way to feed his curiosity about the world and nurture his interest in photography. He has been a regular traveler to Istanbul since 2003. Imran can be contacted at imran.ahmed.sg@gmail.com.