Eskisehir, Turkey: travel hub or hidden gem?

From Bursa our next destination was Konya. However, exploring Turkey at leisure meant the long direct journey to Konya was conveniently broken at Eskisehir. Eskisehir is on the main high speed train route to Konya from Istanbul so it made sense to spend a few days in Eskisehir then take the YHT bullet train to Konya.

Eskisehir did not disappoint; though it helped that our hotel was clean and had strong WiFi versus the dump of a hotel in Bursa (no names shall be mentioned). Yes, after spending several days in a run down hotel it was nice to be in a modern hotel with good infrastructure!

The Porsuk Cayi River runs through Eskisehir and is lines with bars, cafes and restaurants.
(Photo: Imran Ahmed)

Eskisehir or literally old (eski) town (sehir) is ironically mostly a new town. With two major universities in town – Anadolou University and Eskisehir Osmangazi University – Eskisehir is a university town.

But it is much more than simply a university town. It is, after all, a city of almost one million people. For a city of that population, Esiksehir is remarkably compact.

Like many ancient cities - Eskisehir's history can be traced to at least the Byzantine period - it is located on the banks of a river. The Porsuk Cayi River runs through Eskisehir's center. Both sides of the river are lined with cafes, bars and restaurants making it pleasant to stroll by the river. There were even gondolas and river cruises for tourists operating on the river!

One of the many bridges across the river. (Photo: Imran Ahmed)

The highlight of the Eskisehir trip was a walk to Odunpazari District. Odunpazari is an amalgamation of fresh produce street markets, hotels, cafes, restaurants and traditional Turkish style coffee houses. The bazaar is a place to wander, sip coffee and browse souvenirs while taking in the traditional Turkish architecture of the area's houses.

Another unexpected though pleasant surprise was coming across an Aviation Museum in the vicinity of our hotel. However, one should not be too surprised given the city's links to aviation. There is a large Turkish Air Force base on the outskirts of the city. (Fighter planes streaked through Eskisehir skies routinely.) Additionally, the city houses much of Turkey's burgeoning airplane parts manufacturing and maintenance industry.

Eskisehir's Aviation Museum is a great place to see the evolution of the Turkish Air Force and many of it has planes flown from past to present. (Photo: Imran Ahmed)

Eskisehir is a pleasant town with its own subtle charm. Being a university town gives the city a particular character. Following a short stay, Eskisehir came across as a great place - perhaps providing a glimpse into modern (Kemalist) Turkish society outside of the country's main centers of Istanbul and Ankara. If you have a few days to spare and, especially if you like fighter planes, then Eskisehir's your city!

Imran is a Singapore based Tour Guide with a special interest in arts and history. Imran has lived and worked in several countries during his career as an international banker. He enjoys traveling, especially by train, as a way to feed his curiosity about the world and nurture his interest in photography. Presently, Imran is spending ten weeks (March – May 2019) in Turkey exploring the country. He is available on twitter (@grandmoofti); Instagram(@imranahmedsg) and can be contacted at imran.ahmed.sg@gmail.com.

Mosques more beautiful than Istanbul's Blue Mosque – maybe?

Istanbul's Ottoman Turkish monuments and architecture are well known. Istanbul buildings like the Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmet Mosque) and the Sulemaniye Mosque, Topkapi Palace, even the Hagia Sofia are visited by millions each year. Less well known are the Seljuk styled mosques dotted across the pre-Constantinople capital city of Bursa.

Bursa's gold bazaar is located in an old han or travelers hotel complex (photo: Imran Ahmed)

Bursa can be reached in approximately two hours by car from Istanbul or by a ferry to the nearby port of Mudanya in about the same time. A note of caution about the ferry services from Istanbul's Eminonu pier to Mudanya: they are subject to weather conditions.

The day of our departure all ferry services to Bursa were canceled due to rough seas. We ended up taking the bus from Istanbul's Harem bus terminal to Bursa's Otogari Terminal. Bursa's bus terminal is out of the historic city center so be prepared for another trip before reaching your hotel. Taxis and local Metro buses are easily available at the terminal.

Let's get back to Bursa. Like many places in Turkey, Bursa traces its history back to Greek and Roman times. There are even some Roman artefacts on display at the British Museum in London, Britain. (I wonder if these pieces were gifted or simply appropriated when the treasure was located in the early 20^th century?)

Bursa was captured by the Ottoman Turks in 1326. Subsequently, the city became the Ottoman capital. It was during the Ottoman period that Bursa gained its nickname of 'Green Bursa.' The city was lined with gardens and parks and its importance as a fruit growing region was enhanced. Architecturally, the Ottomans also left behind several mosques and monuments which are a must see.

While traces of Bursa's ancient history are found mostly in museums, the period from the fourteenth century onward is plainly visible for any traveler moving around the city, e.g. the Ulu Cami or Grand Mosque which dominates an entire section of Bursa.

Men pray inside the main prayer hall of the Ulu Cami or Grand Mosque (photo: Imran Ahmed)

The Grand Mosque was completed in 1399 with some unique features. Notably, it contains a fountain inside the mosque giving the mosque a beautiful tranquil feel. Moreover, the mosque has twenty domes. Apparently, Sultan Beyazit I (1389- 1402) pledged to build twenty mosques after winning the Battle of Nicopolis against a combined European Crusaders force. Ultimately, Sultan Beyazit I (aka the 'Thunderbolt') decided to fulfill his pledge by building one mosque with twenty domes!

Then there is the Yesil Cami or Green Mosque and its adjacent Yesil Turbe (Green Mausoleum). The Green Mosque was completed in 1422. It is named after the green-blue tiles which line its interior. The mosque has living quarters for the Sultan (and his harem) in case he decided to grace the area for an overnight stay.

A fountain in the courtyard of the Yesil Cami or Green Mosque (photo: Imran Ahmed)

Although Bursa's main sites can be seen on a day trip from Istanbul, there is much to be said for a longer stay in this city – especially if you wish to take in the nearby Mount Ulugdag, Turkey's premier ski resort. There's also the seaside town of Mudanya – 25 kilometers from Bursa and the landing point of the ferry from Istanbul – which is known for its fish restaurants and nightlife (disclosure: I have not visited Mudanya … yet). Travelers wishing to get beyond Istanbul and the Sutan Ahmet area will find Bursa worthwhile choice.

Imran is a Singapore based Tour Guide with a special interest in arts and history. Imran has lived and worked in several countries during his career as an international banker. He enjoys traveling, especially by train, as a way to feed his curiosity about the world and nurture his interest in photography. Presently, Imran is spending ten weeks (March – May 2019) in Turkey exploring the country. He is available on twitter (@grandmoofti); Instagram(@imranahmedsg) and can be contacted at imran.ahmed.sg@gmail.com.

Istanbul not Constantinople; Kadikoy not Sultan Ahmet

There is a historic – mainly Ottoman – Istanbul in the Sultan Ahmet district. Then there is the rest of Istanbul. Within 'the rest' is a neighborhood on the Asian side called Kadikoy.

A view of Kadikoy near the Ferry Terminal (Photo: Imran Ahmed)

Kadikoy is authentic Istanbul. It's importance dates back to the Catholic Church Council of Chalcedon in 451 AD. That's right, during Istanbul's Constantinople days Catholic theological beliefs were being defined in Kadikoy. The Chalcedonian Definition stating that Jesus is "perfect both in deity and in humanness; this selfsame one is also actually God and actually man" was pronounced in Kadikoy. 

Following the capture of Constantinople by Ottoman Turks Kadikoy and its surrounding areas became a part of the imperial capital. Slowly it became influenced by Ottoman architecture and lifestyle. 

The historically significant Selimiye Barracks are located in between Kadikoy and the neighboring district of Uskudar. Built originally in 1800 by Sultan Selim III, the Selimiye Barracks played a pivotal role in the modernization of the Ottoman military. The barracks were built to undermine the power of the traditionally disciplined elite fighting force otherwise known as the Janissaries (or New Soldier in Turkish). The barracks were for the 'newer' soldiers of the Nizam-i-Cedid or New Order. It were these 'newer' soldiers which would ultimately be required to battle and destroy the all powerful Janissaries in 1826.

(The Janissaries were established by Ottoman Sultan Murad I during his reign between 1362 – 1389. By the eighteenth century the Janissaries had become a law unto themselves. The Janissaries were too powerful to be simply disbanded; they could remove Sultans through palace coups virtually at will.  Ultimately, the Janissary corps had to be physically destroyed in 1826 by Nizam-i-Cedid soldiers loyal to the Sultan. The Janissaries deserve a blog post of their own given their importance to Ottoman Turkish history!)

The Haydarpasa Railway Station - Istanbaul's main station serving Asian Turkey (presently under renovation). Photo: Wikipedia  

Fast forward to 2019 and modern Kemalist, Republican Turkey. Today's Kadikoy district is where Istanbulis go to shop, dine and party. The Moda district within Kadikoy has some fine cafes and independent boutiques. Then there is Bagdat Avenue, a fourteen kilometer long shopping haven. Finally, some of Istanbul's finest nightlife is in Kadikoy!

It is impossible to generalize about any city, especially a city like Istanbul which is embedded with many layers of history and each layer packed with centuries of history. To narrow down and describe a particular district is an even more impossible task, particularly in a blog post of a few hundred words. The only way to begin to understand any city is visit yourself.

Imran is a Singapore based Tour Guide with a special interest in arts and history. Imran has lived and worked in several countries during his career as an international banker. He enjoys traveling, especially by train, as a way to feed his curiosity about the world and nurture his interest in photography. He is available on twitter (@grandmoofti); Instagram(@imranahmedsg) and can be contacted at imran.ahmed.sg@gmail.com.

Istanbul – not Constantinople

Turkey is a long way from Singapore. And despite 97 percent of the country's land mass and approximately 90 percent of Turkey's population being in Asia – it's a stretch to consider Turkey an Asian nation. At least not the Asia represented by Singapore.

A view across the Golden Horn on the European side of Istanbul. The Galata Tower can be seen towering over the city skyline (photo: Imran Ahmed)

Though Singapore and Turkish Airlines offer direct flights covering the almost 9,000 kilometers between Singapore and Istanbul, Gulf carriers like Emirates and Qatar Airways offer cheaper fares though with the discomfort of a transit in Dubai and Doha respectively. On this journey I chose Qatar Airways and had a two hour layover in Doha.

Qatar Airways was a good decision. The airline did not disappoint. New planes with good in-flight entertainment options; staff was attentive and available for that cup of tea or glass of water even in the middle of the night (both flights were night flights).

Doha airport? It's a contrast from Dubai airport. Dubai airport is crowded (bustling!) and has started to look tired. Dubai shows its age - it has been a popular air travel hub for several decades. On the contrary, Doha Hamad Airport is (relatively) new. Passengers have some breathing space. Perhaps it's not fair to compare an airport (Doha) which serves 35 million passengers with the third busiest airport (Dubai) in the world serving almost 90 million passengers in 2018?

There's no reaching a destination without a journey … but this post is about my arrival in Istanbul and not my experiences getting to Istanbul.

Crowds of people throng the streets of Kadikoy in the Asian side of Istanbul (photo: Imran Ahmed)

Istanbul, not Constantinople!

More than many cities, Istanbul is a living collection of the multiple civilizations which have owned the city streets over the centuries. Dating from the pre-Christian Roman period to today's Turkish Republic. Physical traces of each civilization are visible around the nation, from Roman ruins to Byzantine churches to Ottoman mosques and everything in between.

However, Istanbul's 'je ne sais quoi' comes from its cultural uniqueness.

By any yardstick, Istanbul is an European city. It has an European feel about it. Yet, the uninitiated may be surprised to hear the Azan or Muslim call to prayer ringing crisply through the air five times daily. Moreover, a glass of wine or beer are easily available at restaurants and cafes around the city. Again, the uninitiated will soon realize it's virtually impossible to find a ham and cheese sandwich in Istanbul. Alcoholic beverages are alright but pig meat is not!

Just as there is more to Istanbul than the Hagia Sofia and the Blue Mosque there is more to Turkey than Istanbul. Stay tuned for more from Turkey. The mystery and adventures in the proverbial Orient are just beginning.

Imran is a Singapore based Tour Guide with a special interest in arts and history. Imran has lived and worked in several countries during his career as an international banker. He enjoys traveling, especially by train, as a way to feed his curiosity about the world and nurture his interest in photography. He is available on twitter (@grandmoofti); Instagram(@imranahmedsg) and can be contacted at imran.ahmed.sg@gmail.com.

Ever had your comments deleted?

Recently, a user posted a multimedia presentation about Pakistan’s tourism potential. Through a comment I shared my experience while showing foreign guests around several tourist sites, including Makli Tombs (UNESCO World Heritage Site), Katas Raj temple complex, Ranikot Fort and Hala.

My experiences didn’t advance the narrative propagated by the presentation. As a result, the author deleted my comments.

When I checked with the author about my comments, he informed me my statements were ‘propaganda’ and not comments - thus he thought it fine to delete them!

Yes, it’s the author’s post and he can moderate (or delete) comments at will. Though I can’t help wondering if removing comments (unless they are obscene or clearly out of line) simply because they don’t neatly fit with a particular narrative is insulting to the LinkedIn community?

LinkedIn is a platform for sharing ideas and constructive debate. It is not a vehicle for propagating opinions in a myopic manner. To advance ideas it is necessary to allow for contradictory facts and differing interpretations.

Have you had similar experiences on LinkedIn? How did it make you feel? Share your ideas below.

*The above article was first published on LinkedIn on February 11, 2019. 

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Note: Imran is a former banker and has lived and worked in several countries during his international banking career. He enjoys traveling, especially by train, as a way to feed his curiosity about the world and nurture his interest in photography. He is a licensed freelance tour guide in Singapore. He is available on twitter (@grandmoofti); Instagram (@imranahmedsg) and can be contacted at imran.ahmed.sg@gmail.com

Deutschland 86: German television series review

After watching the first season – Deutschland 83 – I was excited to see the second season available on Netflix. Compared to Deutschland 83, this season was a slight disappointment; watchable but not as binge worthy as Deutschland 83.

For those expecting more of the same Deutschland 86 will come as a surprise. Deutschland 86 moved away from its core East Germany vs West Germany Cold War premise and shifted to the Cold War battleground of South Africa.

The episodes didn't flow seamlessly, i.e. the stories seemed jumpy and often only loosely connected. While there was continuity with main characters, e.g. Martin Rauch, Lenora Rauch, et. al. many new persons were introduced and made the story more complicated to follow.

In a nutshell, the plot goes as follows. The Soviet Union is near bankruptcy. Gorbachev is implementing reforms which include cutting financial aid to Warsaw Pact countries like East Germany. In the new environment, East Germany's government is forced to scramble for hard currencies like the Deutsche Marks (remember the West German currency?!) by going 'capitalist.'

Many schemes, legal and illegal but all surreptitious, are concocted by East German leaders. East German blood is sold across the border. East German citizens are used for (often unethical) medical trials by Western pharmaceutical companies.

However, for Deutschland 86 the focus is on smuggling weapons. Not just routine arms smuggling but violating a UN arms embargo against South Africa's white supremacist Apartheid regime (remember black people were legally subhuman until the late 1980s in South Africa?!).

Yes, communist East Germany was selling weapons to 'Free / Capitalist South Africa' so it could suppress Mandela's communist African National Congress (ANC) armed insurgency … to generate money to keep the Socialist dream alive! Ironic but true. Much of Deutschland 86 revolves around the adventures related to selling arms to South Africa and the shenanigans required to circumvent UN sanctions and hoodwink ordinary communist East Germans.

Deutschland 86 is eminently watchable. Not as tightly knit as the first season of Deutschland. Nonetheless, it reveals important insights into the demise of the East Bloc's communist regimes while still entertaining viewers. For social scientists, Deutschland 86 underscores the importance of pragmatism over ideology.

NB: At the time of writing Deutschland 86 is available on Netflix in multiple jurisdictions.

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Imran is a Singapore based Tour Guide with a special interest in arts and history. Imran has lived and worked in several countries during his career as an international banker. He enjoys traveling, especially by train, as a way to feed his curiosity about the world and nurture his interest in photography. He is available on twitter (@grandmoofti); Instagram(@imranahmedsg) and can be contacted at imran.ahmed.sg@gmail.com.

Occupied: Norwegian television series a review

Occupied is a Norwegian television series which tells the story of a series of political events leading to the Russian military occupation of Norway.

A Russian military occupation of Norway may sound unrealistic but the series plays out in such a manner that it's almost believable. After a few episodes it doesn't really matter as the plot fully draws in the viewer. The intricate plot blends love, political intrigue, action and European politics in a believable fashion.

The military intervention was all about Norway's enormous oil and gas reserves.

Yes, the geopolitics of oil and gas are intense. After all, wasn't the US intervention in Iraq all about oil? So why should one be so surprised something similar could happen in the heart of Europe with Russia as the antagonist?

Occupied is watchable despite the acting. At times, the acting leaves a lot to be desired. It is wooden with characters seeming to simply 'go through the motions.' The depth in characters is therefore missing.

Nonetheless, Occupied is a must watch for anyone interested in political thrillers. It builds a credible story based on plausible situations. The gaps in the plot are forgivable given the entertainment value of the series.

Note: At the the time of writing, two season of Occupied are available on Netflix in many jurisdiction.

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Imran is an adventurer, blogger, consultant, guide, photographer, speaker, traveler and a banker in his previous life. He is available on twitter (@grandmoofti); Instagram (@imranahmedsg) and can be contacted at imran.ahmed.sg@gmail.com.