Why ten weeks in Turkey? Blame Ataturk and the Ottoman Turks!

Spending ten weeks in any country outside your own is a commitment. It costs money, requires energy and, most importantly, the country must tickle your fancy. And, it uses ten weeks of your life – time which can never be recovered!

Our journey starts in Istanbul and gradually moves eastwards until Kars. Along the way we take in one city on the Black Sea coast, i.e, Trabzon. Finally, from Kars we head back to Istanbul via Ankara on the Dogu Express train. 

But why Turkey?

I first visited Turkey in 2003. Following that first trip, I continued traveling to Turkey at regular intervals, including twice by train from Istanbul to London, Britain and an Istanbul to Tbilisi, Georgia by rail / road journey in 2018.

However, my relationship with Turkey started much earlier and it was due to a gentleman called Mustafa Kemal (1881 – 1938) aka Ataturk.

In my youth – and in my family (as was the case with many Pakistani families) – Ataturk was revered as a modernizing Muslim leader, on par with Quaid-e-Azam Mohammad Ali Jinnah and Dr Muhammad Iqbal. Here was a leader destined to pull the Islamic world towards progress following centuries of decay and stupor. He was a uniting force in a world where Muslims were (are?) torn, divided and at the mercy of Western nations.

To be sure, for millions of Muslims around the world Ataturk inherited the honorific leadership position held for centuries by the Ottoman Sultan in his capacity as Caliph of the Sunni Muslim world. Ataturk, however, not only inherited the leadership title, he earned the respect of millions through his exploits as a military officer during World War I and the ensuing Turkish War of Independence.

Postcard depicting the 'Sick Man of Europe' being devoured by other European countries (Circa: early 20th century)

When World War I ended in 1918, the defeated Ottoman Empire's carcass was being devoured by victorious European colonial powers, i.e. Britain and France. Istanbul was occupied by French and British forces. Izmir was to be handed over to the Greeks, Armenia and Russia were encroaching on eastern Anatolia with only a small rump in Anatolia allocated as living space for Muslim Turks.

Ataturk, the hero of Gallipoli and the father of modern, Republican Turkey was the military leader who - with some good fortune and masterful leadership – saved Ottoman Turkey from the devouring colonial powers. Ultimately, through the 1923 Treaty of Laussanne the Allies recognized modern Turkey and its present borders. In return, Turkey renounced all claims to former Ottoman Empire territories, including in the the Middle East.

Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, the saviour and founder of modern Turkey (Photo: Wikipedia)

Students of history understand that history is like a cyclone. Once you get caught in the torrents of history the only way forward is by going deeper towards the center. That's what happened to me. After studying Ataturk it became obvious the man had to be placed in the broader context of the Turkish Ottoman Empire.

So it went, from studying the Mogul Empire I turned to the Ottoman Empire. I've not looked back since then.

Finally, in 2003 I became just one more number in Turkey's tourism statistics with my maiden visit to Istanbul. Since 2003, Turkey has been on the travel agenda regularly, though in fits and starts. Recently, it became apparent that if I am to deepen my relationship with Turkey I must broaden it beyond Istanbul. Moreover, I've already paid my respects at Ataturk's mausoleum in Ankara so it's time to move into the Anatolian heartlands.

That's where we are today, Turkey for ten weeks, including two long stays in Istanbul (arrival and departure) plus three to five nights in each of the following cities: Bursa, Eskisehir, Konya, Adana, Gaziantep, Diyarbakir, Mardin, Van, Agri, Erzerum, Trabzon, Kars and finally Ankara.

By the end of this trip, not only should I speak a smattering of Turkish words but also have a better understanding of Turks and Turkey. At least, that's the hope!

Imran is a Singapore based Tour Guide with a special interest in arts and history. Imran has lived and worked in several countries during his career as an international banker. He enjoys traveling, especially by train, as a way to feed his curiosity about the world and nurture his interest in photography. Presently, Imran is spending ten weeks (March – May 2019) in Turkey exploring the country. He is available on twitter (@grandmoofti); Instagram(@imranahmedsg) and can be contacted at imran.ahmed.sg@gmail.com.

Poor entertainment, purely cerebral (Film review: Stay)

I watched the movie thinking it might be a suspenseful thriller. I was mistaken. The movie was slow to begin with but after about 30 minutes I felt committed and saw it through to the end.

Despite the big name cast - every actor was a familiar face - the movie provided little in the way of entertainment. It was purely cerebral. Maybe the writer is a shrink?

The movie may make sense to shrinks or those who wish to mentally dissect the 100 minutes of celluloid. For those just looking for entertainment the movie is a failure.

Watch it if you're in a Freudian mood otherwise move on to something else.

NB: At the time of writing this review, Stay is available on Amazon Prime in many jurisdictions.

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Imran is a Singapore based Tour Guide with a special interest in arts and history. Imran has lived and worked in several countries during his career as an international banker. He enjoys traveling, especially by train, as a way to feed his curiosity about the world and nurture his interest in photography. He is available on twitter (@grandmoofti); Instagram(@imranahmedsg) and can be contacted at imran.ahmed.sg@gmail.com.

Konya: Mevlana Rumi's city

After Eskisehir, next stop was Konya. We traveled by a Turkish Railways high speed bullet train - yes, Turkish Railways have high speed trains running on several key routes connecting Ankara and Istanbul to other parts of the country. Konya, Mevlana Rumi's city, is connected via bullet trains to both Istanbul and Ankara.

Many observers suggest Konya is Turkey's most religiously conservative city – the heartbeat of Islam in Turkey.

The main square in Konya with the Selimiye Mosque in the foreground and the Mevlana Rumi shrine complex (with the green tower) in the background (Photo: Imran Ahmed)

Even before arriving in Konya I got a whiff of this conservatism while looking for hotels. One of the hotels stated on its booking conditions that couples must show proof of marriage at the time of check-in! (Ticket: check; passport: check; marriage certificate: check!)

The influence of Rumi is felt everywhere – not only in the in the notable absence of stores selling alcoholic beverages. Indeed, Konya thrives on religious tourism (and it does a good job at it too). Much of this tourism revolves around followers paying homage to Rumi at his tomb.

Rumi's tomb is ensconced in a complex, including a museum devoted to his life and the beliefs of his Mawlawiyah Order. Amazingly, entry to his tomb and attached museum is free (good on you, Turkey!).

Rumi's grave inside the shrine complex (Photo: Imran Ahmed)

Rumi was born in 1207 in Afghanistan – then a part of the Persian empire - and died in 1273 in Konya. Over his lifetime, Rumi developed a unique Islamic philosophy through his teachings. His philosophy was beautifully expressed through his poetry which was written mainly in Persian and Arabic, but also in Turkish and Greek. It were his teachings that ultimately led to the establishment of the Mawlawiyah Sufi order.

Though Rumi was born into a family of theologians – his father was a mystical theologian, author and teacher – it was Rumi's meeting and subsequent relationship with Shams al Din of Tabriz (1185 – 1248) which greatly affected his religious views. Shams, best known for his Forty Rules of Love, became Rumi's spiritual mentor and guide until his disappearance in 1247.

Undoubtedly, Konya is Rumi's city. It is hard to escape Rumi's influence – it permeates the entire city. Rumi's influence gives the city a unique character. To be sure, Konya has other attractions, e.g. museums and even some beautiful gardens (Alaeddin Hill), the city is one big shrine to the Great Mevlana.

Turk kahvesi or Turkish coffee served konya style (Photo: Imran Ahmed)

Enjoy Konya not only for the Mevlana but, more importantly, for what he represents: tolerance, positive reasoning, goodness, charity and Love.

Come, come again, whoever you are, come!

Heathen, fire worshipper or idolatrous, come!

Come even if you broke your penitence a hundred times,

Ours if the door of hope, come as you are. 

- Rumi

Stay tuned for my next post on Adana – home of the famous Adana Kebab!

Imran is a Singapore based Tour Guide with a special interest in arts and history. Imran has lived and worked in several countries during his career as an international banker. He enjoys traveling, especially by train, as a way to feed his curiosity about the world and nurture his interest in photography. Presently, Imran is spending ten weeks (March – May 2019) in Turkey exploring the country. He is available on twitter (@grandmoofti); Instagram(@imranahmedsg) and can be contacted at imran.ahmed.sg@gmail.com.

Eskisehir, Turkey: travel hub or hidden gem?

From Bursa our next destination was Konya. However, exploring Turkey at leisure meant the long direct journey to Konya was conveniently broken at Eskisehir. Eskisehir is on the main high speed train route to Konya from Istanbul so it made sense to spend a few days in Eskisehir then take the YHT bullet train to Konya.

Eskisehir did not disappoint; though it helped that our hotel was clean and had strong WiFi versus the dump of a hotel in Bursa (no names shall be mentioned). Yes, after spending several days in a run down hotel it was nice to be in a modern hotel with good infrastructure!

The Porsuk Cayi River runs through Eskisehir and is lines with bars, cafes and restaurants.
(Photo: Imran Ahmed)

Eskisehir or literally old (eski) town (sehir) is ironically mostly a new town. With two major universities in town – Anadolou University and Eskisehir Osmangazi University – Eskisehir is a university town.

But it is much more than simply a university town. It is, after all, a city of almost one million people. For a city of that population, Esiksehir is remarkably compact.

Like many ancient cities - Eskisehir's history can be traced to at least the Byzantine period - it is located on the banks of a river. The Porsuk Cayi River runs through Eskisehir's center. Both sides of the river are lined with cafes, bars and restaurants making it pleasant to stroll by the river. There were even gondolas and river cruises for tourists operating on the river!

One of the many bridges across the river. (Photo: Imran Ahmed)

The highlight of the Eskisehir trip was a walk to Odunpazari District. Odunpazari is an amalgamation of fresh produce street markets, hotels, cafes, restaurants and traditional Turkish style coffee houses. The bazaar is a place to wander, sip coffee and browse souvenirs while taking in the traditional Turkish architecture of the area's houses.

Another unexpected though pleasant surprise was coming across an Aviation Museum in the vicinity of our hotel. However, one should not be too surprised given the city's links to aviation. There is a large Turkish Air Force base on the outskirts of the city. (Fighter planes streaked through Eskisehir skies routinely.) Additionally, the city houses much of Turkey's burgeoning airplane parts manufacturing and maintenance industry.

Eskisehir's Aviation Museum is a great place to see the evolution of the Turkish Air Force and many of it has planes flown from past to present. (Photo: Imran Ahmed)

Eskisehir is a pleasant town with its own subtle charm. Being a university town gives the city a particular character. Following a short stay, Eskisehir came across as a great place - perhaps providing a glimpse into modern (Kemalist) Turkish society outside of the country's main centers of Istanbul and Ankara. If you have a few days to spare and, especially if you like fighter planes, then Eskisehir's your city!

Imran is a Singapore based Tour Guide with a special interest in arts and history. Imran has lived and worked in several countries during his career as an international banker. He enjoys traveling, especially by train, as a way to feed his curiosity about the world and nurture his interest in photography. Presently, Imran is spending ten weeks (March – May 2019) in Turkey exploring the country. He is available on twitter (@grandmoofti); Instagram(@imranahmedsg) and can be contacted at imran.ahmed.sg@gmail.com.

Mosques more beautiful than Istanbul's Blue Mosque – maybe?

Istanbul's Ottoman Turkish monuments and architecture are well known. Istanbul buildings like the Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmet Mosque) and the Sulemaniye Mosque, Topkapi Palace, even the Hagia Sofia are visited by millions each year. Less well known are the Seljuk styled mosques dotted across the pre-Constantinople capital city of Bursa.

Bursa's gold bazaar is located in an old han or travelers hotel complex (photo: Imran Ahmed)

Bursa can be reached in approximately two hours by car from Istanbul or by a ferry to the nearby port of Mudanya in about the same time. A note of caution about the ferry services from Istanbul's Eminonu pier to Mudanya: they are subject to weather conditions.

The day of our departure all ferry services to Bursa were canceled due to rough seas. We ended up taking the bus from Istanbul's Harem bus terminal to Bursa's Otogari Terminal. Bursa's bus terminal is out of the historic city center so be prepared for another trip before reaching your hotel. Taxis and local Metro buses are easily available at the terminal.

Let's get back to Bursa. Like many places in Turkey, Bursa traces its history back to Greek and Roman times. There are even some Roman artefacts on display at the British Museum in London, Britain. (I wonder if these pieces were gifted or simply appropriated when the treasure was located in the early 20^th century?)

Bursa was captured by the Ottoman Turks in 1326. Subsequently, the city became the Ottoman capital. It was during the Ottoman period that Bursa gained its nickname of 'Green Bursa.' The city was lined with gardens and parks and its importance as a fruit growing region was enhanced. Architecturally, the Ottomans also left behind several mosques and monuments which are a must see.

While traces of Bursa's ancient history are found mostly in museums, the period from the fourteenth century onward is plainly visible for any traveler moving around the city, e.g. the Ulu Cami or Grand Mosque which dominates an entire section of Bursa.

Men pray inside the main prayer hall of the Ulu Cami or Grand Mosque (photo: Imran Ahmed)

The Grand Mosque was completed in 1399 with some unique features. Notably, it contains a fountain inside the mosque giving the mosque a beautiful tranquil feel. Moreover, the mosque has twenty domes. Apparently, Sultan Beyazit I (1389- 1402) pledged to build twenty mosques after winning the Battle of Nicopolis against a combined European Crusaders force. Ultimately, Sultan Beyazit I (aka the 'Thunderbolt') decided to fulfill his pledge by building one mosque with twenty domes!

Then there is the Yesil Cami or Green Mosque and its adjacent Yesil Turbe (Green Mausoleum). The Green Mosque was completed in 1422. It is named after the green-blue tiles which line its interior. The mosque has living quarters for the Sultan (and his harem) in case he decided to grace the area for an overnight stay.

A fountain in the courtyard of the Yesil Cami or Green Mosque (photo: Imran Ahmed)

Although Bursa's main sites can be seen on a day trip from Istanbul, there is much to be said for a longer stay in this city – especially if you wish to take in the nearby Mount Ulugdag, Turkey's premier ski resort. There's also the seaside town of Mudanya – 25 kilometers from Bursa and the landing point of the ferry from Istanbul – which is known for its fish restaurants and nightlife (disclosure: I have not visited Mudanya … yet). Travelers wishing to get beyond Istanbul and the Sutan Ahmet area will find Bursa worthwhile choice.

Imran is a Singapore based Tour Guide with a special interest in arts and history. Imran has lived and worked in several countries during his career as an international banker. He enjoys traveling, especially by train, as a way to feed his curiosity about the world and nurture his interest in photography. Presently, Imran is spending ten weeks (March – May 2019) in Turkey exploring the country. He is available on twitter (@grandmoofti); Instagram(@imranahmedsg) and can be contacted at imran.ahmed.sg@gmail.com.

Istanbul not Constantinople; Kadikoy not Sultan Ahmet

There is a historic – mainly Ottoman – Istanbul in the Sultan Ahmet district. Then there is the rest of Istanbul. Within 'the rest' is a neighborhood on the Asian side called Kadikoy.

A view of Kadikoy near the Ferry Terminal (Photo: Imran Ahmed)

Kadikoy is authentic Istanbul. It's importance dates back to the Catholic Church Council of Chalcedon in 451 AD. That's right, during Istanbul's Constantinople days Catholic theological beliefs were being defined in Kadikoy. The Chalcedonian Definition stating that Jesus is "perfect both in deity and in humanness; this selfsame one is also actually God and actually man" was pronounced in Kadikoy. 

Following the capture of Constantinople by Ottoman Turks Kadikoy and its surrounding areas became a part of the imperial capital. Slowly it became influenced by Ottoman architecture and lifestyle. 

The historically significant Selimiye Barracks are located in between Kadikoy and the neighboring district of Uskudar. Built originally in 1800 by Sultan Selim III, the Selimiye Barracks played a pivotal role in the modernization of the Ottoman military. The barracks were built to undermine the power of the traditionally disciplined elite fighting force otherwise known as the Janissaries (or New Soldier in Turkish). The barracks were for the 'newer' soldiers of the Nizam-i-Cedid or New Order. It were these 'newer' soldiers which would ultimately be required to battle and destroy the all powerful Janissaries in 1826.

(The Janissaries were established by Ottoman Sultan Murad I during his reign between 1362 – 1389. By the eighteenth century the Janissaries had become a law unto themselves. The Janissaries were too powerful to be simply disbanded; they could remove Sultans through palace coups virtually at will.  Ultimately, the Janissary corps had to be physically destroyed in 1826 by Nizam-i-Cedid soldiers loyal to the Sultan. The Janissaries deserve a blog post of their own given their importance to Ottoman Turkish history!)

The Haydarpasa Railway Station - Istanbaul's main station serving Asian Turkey (presently under renovation). Photo: Wikipedia  

Fast forward to 2019 and modern Kemalist, Republican Turkey. Today's Kadikoy district is where Istanbulis go to shop, dine and party. The Moda district within Kadikoy has some fine cafes and independent boutiques. Then there is Bagdat Avenue, a fourteen kilometer long shopping haven. Finally, some of Istanbul's finest nightlife is in Kadikoy!

It is impossible to generalize about any city, especially a city like Istanbul which is embedded with many layers of history and each layer packed with centuries of history. To narrow down and describe a particular district is an even more impossible task, particularly in a blog post of a few hundred words. The only way to begin to understand any city is visit yourself.

Imran is a Singapore based Tour Guide with a special interest in arts and history. Imran has lived and worked in several countries during his career as an international banker. He enjoys traveling, especially by train, as a way to feed his curiosity about the world and nurture his interest in photography. He is available on twitter (@grandmoofti); Instagram(@imranahmedsg) and can be contacted at imran.ahmed.sg@gmail.com.

Istanbul – not Constantinople

Turkey is a long way from Singapore. And despite 97 percent of the country's land mass and approximately 90 percent of Turkey's population being in Asia – it's a stretch to consider Turkey an Asian nation. At least not the Asia represented by Singapore.

A view across the Golden Horn on the European side of Istanbul. The Galata Tower can be seen towering over the city skyline (photo: Imran Ahmed)

Though Singapore and Turkish Airlines offer direct flights covering the almost 9,000 kilometers between Singapore and Istanbul, Gulf carriers like Emirates and Qatar Airways offer cheaper fares though with the discomfort of a transit in Dubai and Doha respectively. On this journey I chose Qatar Airways and had a two hour layover in Doha.

Qatar Airways was a good decision. The airline did not disappoint. New planes with good in-flight entertainment options; staff was attentive and available for that cup of tea or glass of water even in the middle of the night (both flights were night flights).

Doha airport? It's a contrast from Dubai airport. Dubai airport is crowded (bustling!) and has started to look tired. Dubai shows its age - it has been a popular air travel hub for several decades. On the contrary, Doha Hamad Airport is (relatively) new. Passengers have some breathing space. Perhaps it's not fair to compare an airport (Doha) which serves 35 million passengers with the third busiest airport (Dubai) in the world serving almost 90 million passengers in 2018?

There's no reaching a destination without a journey … but this post is about my arrival in Istanbul and not my experiences getting to Istanbul.

Crowds of people throng the streets of Kadikoy in the Asian side of Istanbul (photo: Imran Ahmed)

Istanbul, not Constantinople!

More than many cities, Istanbul is a living collection of the multiple civilizations which have owned the city streets over the centuries. Dating from the pre-Christian Roman period to today's Turkish Republic. Physical traces of each civilization are visible around the nation, from Roman ruins to Byzantine churches to Ottoman mosques and everything in between.

However, Istanbul's 'je ne sais quoi' comes from its cultural uniqueness.

By any yardstick, Istanbul is an European city. It has an European feel about it. Yet, the uninitiated may be surprised to hear the Azan or Muslim call to prayer ringing crisply through the air five times daily. Moreover, a glass of wine or beer are easily available at restaurants and cafes around the city. Again, the uninitiated will soon realize it's virtually impossible to find a ham and cheese sandwich in Istanbul. Alcoholic beverages are alright but pig meat is not!

Just as there is more to Istanbul than the Hagia Sofia and the Blue Mosque there is more to Turkey than Istanbul. Stay tuned for more from Turkey. The mystery and adventures in the proverbial Orient are just beginning.

Imran is a Singapore based Tour Guide with a special interest in arts and history. Imran has lived and worked in several countries during his career as an international banker. He enjoys traveling, especially by train, as a way to feed his curiosity about the world and nurture his interest in photography. He is available on twitter (@grandmoofti); Instagram(@imranahmedsg) and can be contacted at imran.ahmed.sg@gmail.com.